Michael | Bordo
Aside from the curious finds you will come across in Marfa, the food is equally eclectic and interesting. Much like the other shops in the area, the hours or just rough guidelines and not meant to be taken seriously. And if they run out of food, or just feel like it, they’ll close up shop and hang out with the rest of the locals. Some may find this annoying or unprofessional, but that may just be another indicator that this place may not be for them. But this place is not really meant for just anyone. The quirks are part of the charm, and that’s how we like it.
It’s not very often you find a James Beard nominated restaurant in the heart of West Texas, but Bordo (@bordo.tx) is just that. Nestled in the west side of town, this unassuming Italian deli is quietly churning out some amazing food. Each item is crafted with an old-world precision, from quality ingredients sourced both locally and abroad. The whole team functioned like one big family. No one above one another and singularly focused in delivering the best experience possible. Once you enter through their tiny door, you feel like you are home. Full of voices and laughter, its a chaos that is both comforting and exciting. A buzz of activity in a small place, creating an energy that immediately sweeps you in and keeps you coming back. From larger than life sandwiches, delicate pastas, and handcrafted cocktails, you feel as if you have entered his mind and shown food in a new way. Flavor combinations that would make even the most ardent foodie blush. Imagine, a vanilla gelato and cantaloupe sorbeto, topped with fennel sprinkles and french sea salt. It has all the trappings from of a mad man, or a creative genius. And I’m glad to say that Head Chef and Owner Michael Serva is the latter.
Bordo is the brainchild of Michael and his partner Hannah Bailey. Michael has a storied career in food, you can almost say that he was born into it. He is a 4th generation Italian that grew up around butchers, fish mongers, and restauranteurs. He rose through the ranks of the industry, learning from the best, and even acted as a consultant. He then served as a head chef for a few well known restaurants in Texas before going back to his Italian roots and creating a place of his own Marfa. In a way, Michael is the living embodiment of “The Bear”, just instead of Chicago and tight white T-shirts, he opts for the desert and quietly working along side his crew. Though I’m sure his road to Bordo could be a show itself.
Speaking of Chicago, the town banded together to send him and his crew on a trip to the Windy City to attend the James Beard Awards. An honor reserved for only the best restaurants in the country. While they did not claim the top honor, it was an honor nonetheless, and his team is focused on winning the award in the future. This desire to win does not from Michael himself, but from the team he literally picked up from around town. They want to make him proud as well as the town they represent. And that is a reward that Michael cannot get anywhere but in Marfa. In his mind, he’s already won, and so have we.
